Sometimes before surfing I want to scream. Sometimes I do.

W WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT. EARLY MORNING GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT...EASING TO 2 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

One of my most prized possessions.
A Hammerhead Shark carved by my Father...I would guess about 50 years ago or so.
He carved several...Threshers, Blues and others.
They've suffered over the years being handled and played with by me and my brother as kids.
Chipped dorsal & pectoral fins, snapped claspers...ouch!
He carved them from some old redwood posts...it was all about found materials with my Dad.
Born just before the Depression and growing up in the 30's he was the a collector of things.
I still find myself picking up an old washer lying on the street and pocketing it.
"Perfectly good washer", I'll say to myself...
Lessons learned.

NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. NW SWELL 7 FT AT 9 SECONDS

Have to say...
Hoping this summer yields more water time for me...
Than this winter & spring have...
Time to blow the dust off the Frye Eagle...
And find some peelers.

W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 TO 9 FT AT 11 SECONDS. SHOWERS LIKELY WITH SMALL HAIL...THEN CHANCE OF SHOWERS

March surf was an epic fail for my Surf in Oregon...
Probably alot like the moment following this shot...
Looks good in static moments...
But in person not so much...
One surf in that month and not that memorable...
Things may be looking up though...
This week single digit surf and favorable winds...
Of course, that's just the forecast...
Reality could be much different...
Even if it all comes together...
There's always family & work that could get in the way.

W WIND 25 TO 30 KT. GUSTS TO 35 KT. COMBINED SEAS 20 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 14 SECONDS.

"During my sophomore year at the University of Hawaii in 1967, I noticed a flyer about a yoga class for that evening. I think maybe it was the group of girls gathered around the announcement, all talking about how they were going to go check it out, that got my initial attention." -Gerry Lopez from Yoga or Something Like It

SW WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT. W SWELL 12 FT AT 12 SECONDS. 

Col. Kilgore: I will not hurt or harm you. Just give me back the board, Lance. It was a good board... and I like it. You know how hard it is to find a board you like...

SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 13 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

Now is the Wint’r of our discontent
All the more ‘nglorious by summ’rs Sun past;
Brace ‘gainst roiling clouds ou’ of north’rn Gulfs
Which the deep bos’m of the Sea ha’ strength’nd.
Now our Brows furrow wi’ squint’n frowns;
And cold bruis’d Arms rub’d in ach’n mis’ry;
Wi’ stern Glares ne’er chang’d to welcome greetings,
Guarding stony mudded marches to hidd’n Pleasures.
Grey and icy Wat’rs present wrinkled fronts;
And ‘stead of waxing sleek fang’d Steeds
T’ confront Faces of worthy ris’ng adversaries,
Ye caper back nimbly ‘ta wheel’d Chambers
And lascivious Strains of strings and skin.
But I do not so eas’ly court Failure,
In the face of the Sea’s looking-glass;
I, am rudely stamp'd, and demanding deep Majesty
And strut ‘fore want’n ambling wat’ry Nymphs;
Not to be curtail'd of their fair Proportion,
Nor cheat’d of Glide by a dissembling nature,
Defeat’d, unfinish'd, nor sent ‘ere my Time
Into the solid World, made up of hills and vales,
So lamely and unfashion’ble Ground’d
Sea Dogs bark at me as I pass by ‘em;
Towering, frothing Walls bring brief peace,
Yet take no delight or e’en note my Passage,
Aside from their const’nt shadowing from the Sun
And effort to afflict ‘pon me mine own Deformity:
And since I can na’ profess my love to the Sea,
For she entertains not e’en the most well-Spoken,
I am determin’d to prove a Villain, taking what I want
And strive ‘gainst the idle constancy of these Waves.
Plots and lines have I laid, some Paths e’en danger’us,
Design’d in drunk’n Prophecies, libels and dream
To set my brother Wind and th’ Swell
Into Battle the one ‘gainst the other:
And if the Wind blow as true and just
As I am subtle, false and Treacherous,
On this day the Swell shall be well held up.
Enough prophecy, which indicates Oceanic distemp’r
Of the Winds heirs shall I gouge and plund’r at will.
And drive, thoughts of fear, far from my Soul: here
A Wave comes.

I play one in the movies.

NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

Actor nearly deep sixed at Mavericks...
Ah hell...it's in the name of art right?

http://www.mercurynews.com/breaking-news/ci_19582753

E WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 9 FT AT 15 SECONDS.

Forecast looks good...
Loaded up the boards...
Looking like a go...
I'll just do a quick dive...
And, BAM!
Totally grappling...
With a giant octopus.