Thursday, April 25, 2013
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
After a deep, deep Central Willamette Valley mode morning meeting on Tuesday I scrambled for the Central Oregon Coast in hopes of finding some sunshine to go along with the forecast 3 foot swell. I wasn't overly optimistic due to the 25 knot gusts, the 5 foot wind swell and the 3 foot swell that had dropped to 1 foot.
Then my low hopes were dashed upon arrival at Newport as I sighted the whitecaps frothing on the horizon. Cursory checks of north wind protected headlands up the coast yielded sub-miniature dribblers that offered little chance of propulsion despite proper preparation of bringing a 10' 6" single fin log.
Spot after spot checked with windswept bays and beach breaks continued to crush spirits as darkened coastal taverns beckoned and looked increasingly tempting. At Tillamook, I bagged and headed east on Highway 6 resigned to my valley fate. As the dairy farm stench wisped about me I rebelled...hung an illegal u-turn and resumed my northward trek up Highway 1.
At the last ditch spot I pondered just hiking in with survival supplies [beer] and hydrating in the sun. But, being sensible, I lugged the heavy longboard down the trail knowing failure to do so meant surrender on my part and I could not stomach it.
Upon arrival on the sand, I was greeted by an empty lineup...empty of surfers and empty of waves. After a few moments, as I battled the steady wind to trudge forward, I saw a mysto peak break about 20 feet from shore in about 10 inches of water...solid shin to knee high and perfect.
Making it to 3rd creek I deposited my Kings of Beer in the frigid waters and watched the north end. Sure enough, a peak showed and a right reeled off in deeper water that looked small but surfable. I suited up and paddled out. The waves were tiny but perfect little offshore peelers with a fun little noseride section.
After about an hour and a half of fun in the sun and surf by my lonesome, the switch was thrown and the little peaks turned off. I paddled south in hopes that a new wave would materialize but no such luck. Once I entered the wind tunnel unprotected 2nd creek area, I opted to head in and consume my beers on the beach.
All in all, coulda been better but it was almost much, much worse.
Friday, April 12, 2013
S WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
I dreamt I jumped from a high bridge over a river.
No lead up as to the how or why I was on the bridge.
A bright night, whether moon or streetlight, I don't know.
Not a suicide, but I don't know why I jumped.
Confident in my ability to reach the surface.
Straightened my body and knifed deeply into the water.
Plunging deeper than expected, too deep I worried.
As my momentum slowed, I looked to the surface.
I kicked and stroked upward without effect.
A swift current pulling me deeper and downriver.
As I drifted further and further from the light.
I began to panic as I realized the situation.
And awoke to my drowning.
Friday, March 08, 2013
N WIND 5 TO 10 KNOTS. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
Looks to be a fun day for Surf In Oregon.
Normally I'd burn a sick day for 5 @ 16 in March.
Instead I actually have to use it.
Getting a CESI...cervical epidural steroid injection.
Good times but hopefully back in the water next week.
Monday, March 04, 2013
~photo by singlefinphoto.com
Surf Rescue has come a long way from the years I worked as a beach lifeguard in the late 70's.
We didn't have helmets.
Nor did the State provide bracing elixirs to combat the frigid waters of North San Diego.
At least not at work.
Monday, January 21, 2013
Been a stellar run of waves, wind & weather over the last week. Got out Friday for a fun few hours. Pretty busy for Surf in Oregon due to the holiday weekend. Looks like the east winds will hold through tomorrow then return later in the week. Get it while you can.
Saturday, January 19, 2013
SE WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 7 TO 9 FT AT 21 SECONDS.
If you are in the Portland area on Sunday, January 20 at 7pm check out Jaimal Yogis reading and book signing for "The Fear Project" at Powell's Books at 10th & Burnside.
From the "Fear Project" website:
Who among us has not been paralyzed by fear? In THE FEAR PROJECT, award-winning journalist and surfer Jaimal Yogis sets out to better understand fear – why does it so often dominate our lives, what makes it tick, and is there even a way to use it to our advantage? In the process, he plunges readers into white shark-infested waters, brings them along to surf 40+ foot waves in the dead of winter, and gives them access to some of the world’s best neuroscience labs, psychologists, and extreme athletes. In this entertaining, often laugh-out-loud narrative, Yogis also treats himself like a guinea pig for all of his research, pushing his own fears repeatedly to the limits—in his sport, in his life, and in love. Ultimately, Yogis shares with his readers the best strategies to emerge triumphant from even the most paralyzing of fears.Jaimal Yogis plans a 5 mile swim down the Willamette to the Burnside bridge prior to his reading...here's a link to the article
Wednesday, January 02, 2013
SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
I tried and I tried.
But I could not escape the Valley of Work.
That left looks pretty surfable.
8 foot swell pushing with offshore winds...
Monday, December 31, 2012
I would like to thank the elements, air and water...
For conspiring to provide me with...
Surfable waves and east winds...
On the second to last day of the year.
Looks like a potentially surfable run this week...
With more east winds and an 8 foot swell on the way...
Perhaps it's a good omen, ringing out the old and...
Ringing in the new with overhead peaks and offshore winds.
Wednesday, December 19, 2012
Friday, December 14, 2012
N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT. NW SWELL 10 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Never been gun contol advocate per se...
Never been a firearm owner or hunter...
Don't have a problem with people that do...
But given the most recent mass shooting events...
Gunman in the mall in Oregon...
And now, dead children in Connecticut...
Enough is enough...
The only guns I want to see or hear about...
Are the kind used to charge in big surf...
Time for a change in America.